Physical Oceanography:
Marine Science 451/501
Fall 2004 Lectures
John Wilkin
Oct
7: Friction, viscosity and shear stress
Oct 11:
Friction and stress divergence in the equations of motion:
Oct
14: The upper ocean response to winds.
Wind
stress and drag coefficients
Effects of the Earth’s rotation on oceanic
motion
Oct
28: Ekman pumping and wind stress curl
Ocean
pressure and the geostropic balance
Nov
4: Geostrophic currents from hydrography
Surface
geostrophic currents from altimetry
Geostrophic
currents from hydrography
Geopotential
surfaces in the ocean
Nov
11: Rossby waves and westward
propagation
Nov
15: Rossby waves and Sverdrup circulation
Nov
18: Sverdrup’s theory of the oceanic circulation
Orders
of magnitude: a simple Sverdrup calculation for typical values
Nov
29: El Niño – Southern Oscillation
Governing
equations: the math and physics of oceanography
So far in class you
have covered the concepts of:
·
conservation of mass
·
conservation of scalar quantities (like temperature and salt)
o
the role of advection, mixing and air-sea fluxes
The equations that
govern fluid motion describe the
influences of different forces that add or remove momentum to a fluid. The
equations of motion are therefore essentially a statement of
·
conservation of momentum
o
acceleration and advection – material derivatives “following the fluid”
o
pressure force and pressure gradients
o
Coriolis (not really a force at all, just a matter of how you
look at it)
o
gravity and hydrostatic pressure
The final step to a
complete description of the governing equations is consideration of friction.
Frictional forces
transfer momentum from the wind to the ocean surface, generating currents and
waves and causing mixing.
Friction also
explains the drag on a fluid that will eventually bring it to rest if all the
driving forces, such as wind, were removed.
Friction acts by
transferring momentum from one fluid parcel to an adjacent parcel by internal
stresses. These stresses arise because a real fluid is viscous.
Friction is the
ultimate sink of energy in fluid flow. Friction dissipates the kinetic energy
and momentum of fluids.
If fluids had no
viscosity, or were inviscid, the wind blowing over a flat sea surface would
have no effect, and fluid flow could be put into perpetual motion by the
application of pressure forces and gravity.
But in real fluids,
friction and stress are important.
You’ve already been
introduced to the concept of molecular diffusion of heat and salt in the governing
equations.
Molecular
diffusivity is a property of the fluid.
Mixing and stirring
on small scales typically appear to act in the same way as molecular diffusion,
but with a larger “eddy” diffusivity that parameterizes the net effect of small
eddies and turbulence in a fluid that mix scalar quantities.
Eddy diffusivity is
a property of the flow, not of the fluid itself.
In molecular
diffusion, the fluxes of tracer across the faces of a fluid element are given
by, e.g.
![]()
and it is the divergence of the flux that can cause a
net gain or loss of heat in the fluid element:
![]()
Momentum will
diffuse though a fluid in much the same manner as heat and salt, only momentum
is a vector and this gives arise to stresses which are a little different to
the analogous fluxes of tracers of heat and salt.
The experiments of
Hagen (1839) and Poiseuille (1840) of steady flow through a long pipe showed
that the discharge (flow rate in m3/s) is proportional to the pressure
difference at the ends of the pipe and the 4th power of the tube
diameter.
![]()
This result was
consistent with hypotheses concerning two fluid properties that were suggested
by observations:
Fluid immediately
adjacent to the wall of the pipe was not moving; the so-called “no slip”
property or boundary condition.
u=0 at z=0
The shear stress,
per unit mass, within fluids is proportional to the “rate of strain” of the
fluid.
in a Newtonian
fluid
where n
is the
kinematic viscosity 1 x 10-6 m2 s-1 for water.
Examples of
different velocity (and hence stress) profiles.
Left: flow between
two flat plates with the top plate moving a
Right: flow with a
free surface where no stress is applied, hence ![]()

Friction and the
viscosity give rise to important properties of fluid dynamics.
1. Fluid
immediately adjacent to a rigid boundary does not move. This is the so-called
“no slip” property or boundary condition
u=0 at e.g. z=-h
2. Friction
transmits momentum, via shear stresses, through a fluid.
Without friction,
stresses applied at fluid boundaries, e.g. the sea surface or the seafloor,
would not get distributed through the water column.
The shear stress
(per unit mass) within fluids is related to the “rate of strain” of the fluid, ![]()
This is rather
different from a solid, where a stress is sustained by a finite displacement of
the solid – an elastic response.
A fluid deformed by
an applied stress does not snap back to its original position once the stress
is removed, so to sustain a stress the fluid has to keep moving and maintaining
the rate of strain.
Stress can be
thought of as a flux of momentum, and is analogous to a flux of heat or salt.
It can be parameterized in a similar manner as a Fickian diffusive flux of a
scalar such as heat or something dissolved (e.g. salt).
Different fluids
have different relationships between stress and rate of strain.
In a Newtonian fluid (e.g. water):
, or
![]()
where m
is the dynamic viscosity and n=m/r
is the
kinematic viscosity.
The molecular
kinematic viscosity of water is 1 x 10-6 m2 s-1.
Aside: Non-Newtonian fluids:
Shear thickening or dilatant fluids:
The apparent viscosity increases with the rate of strain, e.g. wet sand,
suspensions of corn starch, silly putty: the stress increases rapidly with rate
of strain – if you hit the silly putty it snaps into solid chunks
Bingham plastic: can sustain a
finite “yield” stress like a solid, but then suddenly starts moving like a
fluid
Shear thinning or pseudo-plastic
fluids: the apparent viscosity decreases with the duration of the stress, e.g.
ketchup, paint